Cle Elum

From the 1904 Book History of Kittitas County

The thriving little city situated on the upper Yakima river at the junction of the main line of the Northern Pacific railway with its Roslyn branch bears the musical name Cle-Elum, and is the third town in size and importance within the boundaries of Kittitas county. Four years ago it had less than 300 inhabitants; today it boasts a population of 1,500, and surely there is no more prosperous community in the whole Evergreen state. 

Few towns in Washington are more advantageously situated with reference to rich natural resources, accessibility, climate and beautiful scenery than Cle-Elum. It lies on the northern bank of the river at the base of the foothills. The townsite is rectangular in form, perhaps a third of a mile wide and a mile and a half in length, hemmed in on all sides by pretty, refreshing groves of pine and fir which ultimately blend into the great forest areas of the Cascade range. 

The valley winds between high, timbered hills on the north and east and a ragged, pine-clad flank of the main range on the south and west, snow-crested during most of the year. At Cle Elum the valley swells out into a sort of wooded amphitheater, on the northern side of which lies the town. In the poetic language of the Indian, who long since bade the region a fond fare well, Cle-Elum, or “Tle-el-lum,” as they pronounce it, signifies “swift water.” 

Cle-Elum river, from which the town’s name is derived, debouches into the Yakima about three miles above the city. The Indian name has been appropriately bestowed, for the Cle-Elum is a typical mountain stream, rushing seaward with a current that none but the dauntless trout could hope to stem. And neither is it inappropriate to remark here that the upper Yakima water courses in season are alive with millions of the speckled beauties, furnishing unexcelled fishing facilities to Walton's patient disciples. 

The purest of mountain water, good drainage and a dry, clear, ozone-freighted atmosphere combine to make the locality one of the healthiest spots in the country. The climate at Cle-Elum is what might be expected at the base of the range— rather long winter seasons and delightful summers, but the temperature is even and the success of an immense rosary near the town is a sufficient proof of the presence of an unusually large number of sunshiny days. 

The fertile valley lands, as yet only partly developed into farms and gardens, and the foothills, as is well known, are underlaid with the greatest bituminous coal deposits yet discovered in the west, while within easy distance is an extensive mineral district where gold, copper, iron and other metals are found. The whole region in its primeval condition was mantled by a sombre covering of forest. 

Traversing the upper Yakima to its source on the summit is the Northern Pacific's transcontinental railway system, tapping this immense mineral storehouse. Over this steel highway pass six regular passenger and a dozen freight trains daily. Cle-Elum is also the gateway of the Roslyn traffic. An hour's travel westward from Cle-Elum carries the passenger across the summit of the range into the luxuriant timber stretches of the Pacific slope; fifty minutes' travel southeastward takes the traveler to Ellensburg in the heart of the renowned Kittitas valley. 

Truly, Cle-Elum enjoys a convenient and favored location. When all the upper region was an unbroken wilderness, pierced only by the trails of the nomadic Indian and the roving prospector, when Kittitas county was yet an unconsummated scheme, when the Northern Pacific had barely started on its journey coastward from the Columbia river, the corner-stone of Cle-Elum was laid by Thomas L. Gamble. Judge Gamble, who still resides in Cle-Elum and still takes an active interest in its municipal affairs, visited the upper valley in April, 1883, searching for desirable government land, and on the 28th of that month staked out the quarter-section which now forms the eastern portion of Cle Elum's site. 

The hazel brush grew dense; massive pines and firs in dark thickets reared skyward their stately heads; the nearest settlers were miles away, but the doughty veteran and pioneer blazed out his lines and commenced the clearing of Hazel-Dell farm. His claim is recorded as the southeast quarter of section twenty-six, township twenty north, range fifteen east, and was the first one taken in that township. By hard work he succeeded in breaking a small patch of land that summer and getting it planted to vegetables. 

This garden spot returned him enough to supply his own wants and those of the few travelers who passed his cabin, which primitive structure stood in what is now Third street, just below Judge Gamble's present fine home. It remained in existence until three years ago, a monument to pioneer days. The second character in the history of Cle Elum and the man who is responsible more than anyone else for the existence of the town is Walter J. Reed, an old Pennsylvania friend of Mr. Gamble and one of North Yakima's founders. 

These old friends accidentally met at the Yakima land office in April, 1883. There they entered into an agreement that each should assist the other in obtaining land. Accordingly Mr. Gamble notified his friend at once of the existence of an excellent tract just west of the pioneer homestead. June 4, 1883, Mr. Reed filed a pre-emption claim to this quarter section, and became the second settler in the township. 

The Reed cabin, which stood on Third street near Pennsylvania avenue, was erected in the early days of September. The ensuing year brought considerable travel into the region, due to the discovery of large outcroppings of coal, which made it reasonable to suppose that there were extensive deposits some where in the vicinity. Gamble's snug little cabin served most of these travelers as a place for refreshment and rest. 

The railroad engineers reached Cle-Elum's site in August, so his diary records, and during their stay in the vicinity boarded with Mr. and Mrs. Reed in their primitive pioneer home. Late in the year an unusual number of homesteaders and speculators reached the settlement and commenced acquiring possession of the surrounding country, but still there was no town when the new year dawned. The year 1886, which was in so many respects a vitally important one for the upper Yakima valley, witnessed the formal establishment of the town, however. 

It was then that the existence of a rich, bituminous coal field was definitely proven and that the Northern Pacific Railroad Company entered upon the exploitation of the same. The discovery of these mines undoubtedly led to the immediate acceptance of the Stampede pass route across the Cascades, and early in the spring hundreds of men were at work grading the road bed up the Yakima river. 

By April the crews reached the mouth of Smith creek—a small stream heading above Roslyn and in early days flowing through the Reed claim. A corps of engineers also began work surveying a branch line up Smith creek to the new mining camp. The point of junction of the two roads was the natural place for a town, and Mr. Reed, quickly realizing this, on July 26th, platted and dedicated sixty-five acres of his pre-emption claim as a townsite. 

Thomas Johnson was in partnership with Reed in this venture. They adopted the name Cle-Elum, by which the settlement had already come to be known. June 20th Mr. Johnson had brought up his large saw mill from Wilson creek, and set it on the river above the townsite, thereby increasing the population of the neighborhood by forty or fifty. The mill was engaged principally in manufacturing lumber for the railroad company. 

It produced as high as 40,000 feet a day, and furnished nearly all the timber used in the construction of the Columbia river bridge at Pasco. By the terms of his agreement with Mr. Reed, Mr. Johnson obligated himself to secure the establishment upon the former's land of a railway depot. This he was enabled to do easily on account of his influence with Northern Pacific officials, and in due time the depot building was erected. 

Mr. Reed anticipated the rush of transients by erecting, in July, on the corner of Railroad street and Pennsylvania avenue, the hotel which bears his name, and which, though now greatly enlarged and improved, is still accommodating the traveling public. It was even at that time a well furnished frame structure, two and a half stories in height and sixty by thirty-two feet in floor dimensions. 

Under the terms of the Reed-Johnson agreement, U. G. Bogue and H. S. Huson, Northern Pacific locating engineers, were given half the proceeds from the sale of lots during the first year; Logan M. Bullitt, of the Northern Pacific Coal Company, also came in for a small share. October 11, 1886, the long expected railroad train reached Cle Elum and in November the iron horse began its journey over the Roslyn branch toward the bustling mining center at its terminus. 

Late in the summer of 1886, two general stores were established at Cle Elum those of Thomas Johnson and Theron Stafford. John son's store, the pioneer, was housed in a large frame building on Pennsylvania avenue opposite the Reed hotel, while Theron Stafford, a former merchant of Teanaway City, removed his stock into the frame building now occupied by Kellogg's bank, Pennsylvania avenue. 

In September, F. J. Cummings opened a blacksmith shop and a livery stable, the latter of which was subsequently occupied by Thomas Brothers. In October, a third general store was established, that of Wakefield & Tillman. It stood at the corner of Pennsylvania avenue and First street. Oscar Cash also opened a blacksmith shop some time in the fall, and before Christmas several saloons, restaurants and other accessory business institutions were likewise opened to the public. 

It is almost needless to remark that at this period in Cle Elum's history its population was decidedly typical of a western boom town and the daily and nightly life of its people a strenuous one. There are, however, no serious crimes chargeable to the account of the town during its earliest history. With the growth of the region's population, came a demand for a school. 

In order to secure the formation of a district, it was necessary that twelve families should reside within the limits of the proposed district. Now at this time families were rather scarce in eastern Kittitas but by extending the boundaries sufficiently the required dozen could be secured. The county commissioners on recommendation of D. G. C. Baker, decided to overcome legal obstacles, so, on August 2, 1886, established the desired district with the following boundaries: 

“Commencing at the southeast corner of section twenty-five, township twenty, range fifteen east, running south to the Yakima river, following said river west and northerly as a boundary to the mouth of the Cle-Elum river, taking the top of the dividing ridge between the Yakima and Cle-Elum rivers and following the said divide northerly to the township line; thence along said township line to the divide between the Cle Elum lake or river and Teanaway river; thence easterly and south on said township line to the southeast corner of section twenty-five, town ship twenty north, range fifteen east, the place of beginning.” 

Messrs. Reed and Gamble, who were ap pointed directors, immediately transformed the old Reed cabin into a schoolhouse and furnished it with benches, blackboard, etc. The district had no taxpayers at that time, but Mr. Reed furnished board to the teacher at his hotel, while the salary of the pedagogue was paid by subscription. The attendance ranged from half a dozen to thirty. The Reed cabin continued to serve as a schoolhouse until 1890, when a more commodious building was erected. 

November 2, 1886, Cle-Elum precinct, which then included Roslyn, held its first local election, choosing G. W. Campfield as constable and H. C. Witters as justice of the peace. Witters was later succeeded by T. L. Gamble, who for ten years faithfully discharged the duties of that important though comparatively humble judicial office. It is estimated that by the first of the year, 1887, fully 400 people were living upon the town site, engaged in railroad work, mining and catering in various ways to the wants of the public. 

Among the permanent stores established during the year was the confectionery of D. B. Burcham. The year was a prosperous one for Cle-Elum and marks the period of transition from a boom town into a staple community. In 1887 twenty five feet of frontage on Pennsylvania avenue sold readily for $350 to $400. The government designated Cle-Elum as a post office in 1888, Dr. Wheelock taking charge as postmaster Tuesday, January 3d. His office occupied the ground upon which Kahler's drug store now stands. 

In April W. J. Reed platted his first addition to the town and May 24, 1888, Judge Gamble laid out 100 acres of his farm into a town which he called Hazelwood, not deeming it wise to plat it at that time as an addition to Cle Elum, though such in effect it was. The principal buildings erected during the year were Thomas Johnson's new store and an addition to the Reed hotel, built of Cle Elum brick. Among the arrivals of the year was John Rothlesberger, who opened a meat market. Late in the year 1888 Cle Elum felt the effects of the great Roslyn strike, becoming the scene of violence which nearly led to bloodshed. 

Johnson's mill was threatened by angered Knights of Labor, and at one time a noisy demonstration was made against the Reed hotel, but for a detailed account of these troubles the reader is referred to former pages. Cle-Elum enjoyed the advantage of being the headquarters of the Cascade division until the Stampede tunnel was completed, and owing to its proximity to the tunnel derived no small benefit from that great work. 

But the completion of that tunnel, the transfer of division headquarters, the Roslyn mine troubles and the removal of Johnson's sawmill to Puget sound withdrew the bulk of Cle Elum's resources, and beginning with 1889 the town experienced only fair prosperity and a slow growth for several years. Like all communities situated in a timbered region, Cle Elum has always stood in more or less danger from forest fires, though each year this danger grows less. 

One of these fires, sweeping up the valley, suddenly menaced the little town July 23, 1891. The citizens battled man fully with the flames until three o'clock in the afternoon, when it was thought the fire was practically out and the workers retired for rest. Three hours later, however, flames were seen issuing from Theron Stafford's general store on Pennsylvania avenue, and before the weary citizens could stay their progress the entire block of business buildings was a heap of smoldering debris. 

The losses aggregated between $40,000 and $50,000, covered by perhaps $3,000 insurance. Stafford's loss alone was $14,000, with only $1,000 insurance. William Lindsey's grocery, Thomas Johnson's building, occupied at the time by Edward Connell's general store, the building and merchandise stock of F. M. Cox and about ten other frame buildings were destroyed with their contents. Connell's loss was estimated at $9,000 with $2,000 insurance, and Cox's loss at $2,600. 

The Cle Elum Tribune, the town's pioneer newspaper, established March 26, 1891, by C. R. Martin, also suffered a loss amounting to at least $700. One man, while under the influence of liquor and unmanageable, approached the Stafford building too closely and was caught by the falling structure and mortally injured. Mr. Stafford also received a severe burn in an attempt to remove goods from his store. 

Several times during the progress of the fire it was thought the entire town was lost, but per severance and energy won the battle at last. Early in the struggle the Ellensburg fire department was appealed to and within twenty minutes after the call was received the engine and crew were on a flat car and speeding up the valley. At Thorp, however, the train was intercepted by a dispatch stating that the fire was under control and that assistance was not needed. 

Only a few business houses were left by the fire. These were the Reed House, W. J. Reed, proprietor; the Cascade House, August Sasse, proprietor; Branam & Thomas's livery, William Branam and L. R. Thomas, proprietors; D. B. Burcham's barber shop; B. C. Richardson's livery; Oscar Cash's blacksmith shop; Frank Rothlesberger's restaurant and several saloons. This dire calamity, closely followed by the memorable financial stringency, greatly reduced the town's prosperity and population; in fact a town with fewer resources and a less determined citizenship might have given up the struggle for existence entirely. 

But certain forces were at work destined to dispel the gloom and usher in a glorious and lasting prosperity. Deposits of coal were known to exist in the Cle Elum neighborhood long before any attempt at mining was undertaken. The first determined and well directed effort to uncover these veins was made in 1894 by Oscar James, James Smith, Isaac Davis and Charles Hamer, practical miners, who arranged with Judge Gamble to sink a shaft on his farm. 

The enterprise had a successful issue, for at a depth of 240 feet the vein was struck. Soon after machinery was installed by the Cle-Elum Coal Company, as the discoverers above mentioned styled their organization, for the purpose of placing the black diamonds on the market. They obtained a forty years' lease from Mr. Gamble and set a large force of miners at work, also induced the railway company to build side tracks for their accommodation. 

Of course the Gamble mine proved a most welcome boon to the town, although until 1900 it was worked only on a comparatively small scale. An event of the year 1896 which might have proven a very melancholy one was the collapse, from an overweight of snow on its roof, of the Cle-Elum, formerly known as Tillman, hall. It fell to the ground at three o'clock on the morning of January 2d. New Year's eve there had been a largely attended dance in the hall and the strain on the building at that time must have been great. 

The following evening a crowd of thirty young people drove to the Cooley mill as a surprise party, agreeing, however, that if the mill people had retired they would return to the hall for their merrymaking. As it happened, one family at the mill was found awake and the young people remained a circumstance to which they undoubtedly owed their lives. J. J. Lewis and his mother, who occupied rooms in the rear end of the building, barely escaped death. 

Cle Elum, the new, the present bustling little city, came into existence with the dawn of the twentieth century. The remarkable transformation which took place about that time is due to several causes, principal of which was the acquirement of the Gamble lease in 1900 by the Northwestern Improvement Company. Immediately upon taking charge, Manager Bush commenced operations on a large scale, enlarging the plant from time to time and increasing the working force until at present more than 400 men are employed under Superintendent G. M. Green. 

The mine is worked by the pillar and room system, uses double entries, is well ventilated and timbered and is producing 30,000 long tons of coal a month. It is obvious that with such an industry within its limits, steadily in operation six days in a week, any town has the foundation of prosperity and substantial growth. From the time the Cle-Elum mine came under the control of its present operators, Cle Elum has rapidly advanced in population and importance, property has steadily enhanced in value, buildings of a substantial character have taken the place of the old ones and scores of other improvements have been inaugurated. 

Within three years the population has increased 500 per cent. In 1900 Mr. Gamble attached his property to Cle Elum proper under the name of the Hazelwood addition. This action paved the way for the organization of Cle-Elum as a city of the fourth class, and Wednesday, February 12, 1902, the following corps of officers were elected: Mayor—Thomas L. Gamble; councilmen—Michael C. Miller, Robert L. Thomas, R. Elijah Kermeen, D. B. Burcham and M. P. Kay; treasurer—A. E. Emerson; clerk and attorney, G. P. Short; city marshal—Frank Haight; police judge—Theron M. Stafford. 

At the last election, the proposition to incorporate as a city of the third class was carried by a practically unanimous vote and January 1, 1905, the town will advance a step among the municipal corporations of the state. The present city officials were elected in December, 1903: Mayor, E. E. Simpson; city clerk and attorney, G. P. Short; treasurer, L. S. Brown; marshals, Frank Haight and Peter McCallum; city engineer, H. F. Marble; health officer, Dr. I. N. Power; aldermen, D. B. Perrow, R. E. Kermen, M. C. Miller, Isaac Davies, William F. Lewis; chief fire department, C. S. Haines; captain Company No. 1, James A. Thomas; captain Company No. 2, Robert Simpson. 

The city has just reason to feel proud of its new gravity water system, installed during the past twelve months at a cost of approximately $19,000. The water is taken from springs located three miles southwest of town on a quarter section formerly owned by Oscar Cash. From him the city purchased the land last year, paying there for $2,000. The reservoir of 400,000 gallons' capacity lies 180 feet above Pennsylvania avenue, affording a pressure in the business part of ninety pounds to the square inch. 

In all there are three miles of six and four inch mains. The pipe used was made by the Pacific Coast Pipe Company and is built of Washington or Douglas fir, wrapped with No. 4 double galvanized steel tele graph wire, and dipped in a hot bath of tar and asphalt. The patent cast iron couplings are guaranteed to be water tight. To help pay the cost of this system the city issued $10,000 worth of six per cent, bonds. 

The system is soon to be improved by the construction of a large reservoir for fire purposes solely. A volunteer fire department, composed of two companies of the city's public-spirited young men, was organized in October last. Upon the completion of the water works the council invested $1,500 in hose carts and hose, which, with the hydrant facilities and well organized department, place the town in a position to make a strong fight against fire. 

In 1903, also, the town erected a municipal building, costing $1,400, arranged to house fire apparatus on the ground floor, while the second story is fitted up to accommodate the council, public gatherings, lodges, etc. It is estimated that fully four miles of substantial sidewalks and crosswalks have been constructed in Cle Elum. The work of grading streets is going on constantly and will be continued until the city's thoroughfares are in a satisfactory condition. 

The old schoolhouse was replaced in 1890 by a commodious frame structure costing $1,500, built on a tract of land donated by Mr. Reed. Two years ago another building containing two rooms was added to the old schoolhouse and it was thought that room sufficient for years to come had been provided. However, these quarters have been already outgrown and the ground is now broken for the erection of a new frame schoolhouse to cost at least $10,000. 

This building will be two stories high and will contain eight rooms besides the principal's office, library and basement. It will be equipped with a steam heating plant, electric lights and other modern improvements, making it one of the handsomest and most comfortable school buildings in the county. The site lies near the old schoolhouse between Second and Third streets. At present there is an average enrollment of 275 pupils in the Cle-Elum schools, under the instruction of the following corps of teachers: 

J. M. Richardson, principal; Mrs. Daisy Fish, Miss Kate Lanigan, Mrs. Baker, Miss Irene Brain and Miss Anna Bolen. Two grades of high school work have recently been added to the curriculum of study. The school board consists of Frank Martin, Samuel Willis and E. W. Rinehart, Samuel Willis being clerk. There are five churches established in Cle Elum, though only two at present have pastors, the Baptist and the Methodist. 

The other denominations possessing churches are the Presbyterian, the Catholic and the Free Methodist. We have spoken of a rosary as being among the city's notable institutions. So unique is the establishment that a short mention of it seems appropriate. The plant, consisting of about 18,000 feet of glass, is located at the northeast corner of the town and has been established four years. The proprietor, J. A. Balmer, was formerly professor of horticulture and station horticulturist in the State Agricultural College and School of Science, Pullman, Washington. 

When Mr. Balmer decided to establish a plant for the production of cut flowers, he looked the state thoroughly over for a suitable location, and finally decided upon Cle-Elum as the best place for the business. Here he found cheap land, cheap fuel, excellent shipping facilities and a soil suited to the production of high class roses. The plant consists of three glass structures each 200 feet long by 23 feet wide, steam heated and thoroughly modern in construction. 

Over a mile and a half of one and a quarter-inch pipe are used in heating the houses, which are maintained at an even temperature even in the coldest weather. Only roses and carnations are produced. The large and growing cities on the Sound afford an excellent market for the product of the place, and Cle-Elum roses are well known and in demand wherever fine flowers are needed. About 6,000 roses and 3,000 carnations are growing on the benches, and the annual out put amounts to nearly 100,000 flowers. The flowers are cut every morning and shipped every evening, thus putting them fresh on the market every morning. 

September 1, 1903, James A. Kellogg, a gentleman of recognized integrity and ability and a Minneapolis business man for sixteen years, opened a private bank in Cle Elum. The institution, the only one of its kind in the county outside of Ellensburg, occupies a commodious building on Pennsylvania avenue. Among its equipments is a manganese safe of the latest construction. The business of this institution is steadily growing. 

Other business and public enterprises worthy of special mention are the city's newspaper and brass band. The Cle Elum Echo, established by Randall Brothers three years ago, is a very creditable weekly newspaper, both editorially and typographically, the peer of most journals published in towns thrice Cle Elum's size. Charles S. Fell, an experienced and genial newspaper man, is its editor and proprietor. 

The Cle Elum City band was organized in May, 1902, and is an association of twenty skilled musicians. Teasdale L. Wilkeson is the band's manager and musical director; R. H. Connell is treasurer; and Charles Connell, secretary. The members are equipped with tasty uniforms and high grade instruments. A directory of Cle Elum's business concerns and professional men would include, beside those mentioned, the following: 

General merchandise, the Northwestern Improvement Company, Frank Martin manager; T. M. Jones, A. E. Flower; clothing, boots and shoes, Dills, Brown & Lodge; groceries, Kennedy Brothers, Daniel Gaydon; hotels, the Reed House, Theodore Steiner proprietor; the Central, August Sasse proprietor; the Vendome, Albert Harting proprietor; the Piemonte, J. B. Farnelli proprietor; meat markets, the Cle Elum, George Rothlesberger proprietor;

Sides Brothers & Hartman; George Bounds; drug store, Earle Kahler; hardware, Haines & Spratt; sawmill, Wright Brothers & Miller; house furnishers, J. S. Werlich & Son; second hand store, C. J. Trucano; millinery, ladies' furnishings, Mrs. L. L. James, Clara Kuhl; bakery, groceries, the Hazelwood, Giacomini & Schaber proprietors; livery stables, the Cle-Elum, Hugh Fish proprietor; Crocker Brothers, John H. and Walter W.; blacksmith shops, Gongaware, Fish & Comstock, William Oldham; jeweler, H. C. Bilger; confectionery, cigars, etc., 

D. B. Burcham, C. W. Badger, Henry Horstman, Fred Zenter; harness store, Lorenzo Garlick; barber shops, Frank Moore, Clement & Oversby; shoes, C. Morganti; sausage factory, Modoni & Pugiant; restaurants, Bowden & Bowden, the California and the Oregon; transfer company, W. W. Tuttle proprietor; contractors, Daniel B. Perrow, A. S. Paul; physicians, Dr. I. N. Power, Dr. F. W. Nagler; attorney-at-law, G. P. Short; insurance, real estate, land office business, Hon. Walter J. Reed; telegraph office, express office, insurance, 

Charles S. Fell; postmaster, Harry C. Bilger; stages, to Liberty and Fish Lake; several saloons. Several years ago the railroad company, in order to facilitate telegraphing, substituted an “a” for the “E” in the second syllable of the word Cle-Elum, changing the name of the railroad station to correspond. More recently the post office department changed the name of the post office to Clealum. 

This action aroused a storm of indignation among the town's residents and friends, for by the change the old name was destroyed and its significance entirely lost; be sides, the new spelling was not in accord with the city's corporate name. Moreover, considerable Cle Elum mail found its way to Clallam, across the range. 

The name Cle Elum was eventually changed back and continues to this day.